Welcome!

Welcome to my personal travel journal! If you don't know me, that's OK! I hope you'll enjoy reading about some of my adventures and misadventures, and hopefully learn something new about a corner of the world.

Recent updates:
2015-10-06: Day 8 of Niue in 2011.
2015-10-05: Day 7 of Niue in 2011.
2015-09-29: Day 6 of Niue in 2011.

For list of trips, see TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Saturday, June 11, 2011

11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

The meal. Sadly, as we did not have an umu, the end result did not have that smoky taste to it, but was still enjoyable. Most of the people here were anthropology students from Brown University. Apparently a professor did a lot of research here and left a legacy many students followed. Strange to have an unexpected Ivy League reunion in the South Pacific.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

Grating the coconut using an old-school grater: a serrated piece of metal nailed to a piece of wood you sit on. Afterwards, the coconut milk is extracted by wringing the shreds with as much force as possible between a handful of fibres from some plant.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

Nick was having a small party at his place, and as I expounded on my love for palusami, they decided to show me how to make it traditionally! Here is where I learned how to open a coconut with (the dull edge of) a machete or other large knife.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

Tisa also hosts an umu feast here every week. What a cool-looking place! Heading back, after a shopping trip, we were nearly caught by sa, a daily time of rest and prayer, where cars have to stop driving and people must stop walking around. Luckily, we got back minutes before sa started, and didn't get "sa-ed" as Nick puts it.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

Another view of the bar. There are also accommodations here. Heading back to town, I heard news about a troubling now plant or something strange discovered growing here. Bio-security is a big concern on these islands.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

There were some birds with long tails flying overhead. I met an American who is working here for her second time. She is doing a cultural survey to prepare for the installation of a fibre optic Internet line. She offered me a ride back to town.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

I wanted to go for a snorkel, but the conditions didn't look so good with the tide. I watched some tiny stranded lizards or geckos on this rock. I wondered what they do when the tide comes in more.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

View of the cove the bar is situated in. It took a while before someone, Tisa, I think, showed up so that I can get a drink.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

The bar by the ocean was gorgeous.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

Coming back a bit early, I stopped halfway at the well-known Tisa's Barefoot Bar. I nearly milled it, as it was pretty hidden from the road.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

The water washing over the rocks at the beach. Life here seems like it could be very relaxing.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

Another view of the amazingly clear harbour. Supposedly one can snorkel here. Strange to think a harbour is a good place for a snorkel. Check out those clear underwater shadows of the boats!

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

View of the dramatic peaks on Tutuila just across the short stretch of water.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

The coastline just south of the harbour. Looks very inviting for a swim!

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

The church on Aunu'u.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

Peter's house is quite large, and has a nice family with kids. Here, he is growing some "very special" "taro" under this pile that takes a long time to grow. I am very curious, but have no idea what it could be.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

I love the garden walkways in their mostly road-free village. There is only one short gravel road along the coast and the new tsunami evacuation road on the island.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

The village well. Peter carries, and tells me I should carry a machete whenever I go into the forest. This can be used to cut through overgrown areas and as a defence against the overly-aggressive Samoan dogs. Even the Americans living here temporarily carry a stick, rocks in their pockets, or even a length of chain as protection against dogs.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

Peter cut me a fresh piece of sugar cane for me to chew on.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

The new tsunami evacuation road. Apparently the taro fields here have suffered from the improper drainage. One side of the road is flooded, the other, too dry.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

View of Tutuila through the trees from Aunu'u. Peter showed me his traditional tatau (the origin of the word "tattoo") after I asked. He bragged that he holds the record here for finishing his in only three days. The process can go on for up to two weeks if the man cannot endure the pain.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

Up a hill on the island, where they are building a new water tank and a town away from the tsunami's reach. It's apparently too overgrown now to visit the lake in this picture that supposedly contains giant eels. Apparently it's possible to see Manu'a from over there on a clear day.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

A small beach area with waves pounding on it on the eastern side of the island. This seems to be one of the very few places that Google doesn't seem to have good satellite imagery of. I can say this is officially off the (Google satellite) map (at time of writing)!

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

The supposedly terrifying quicksand that has killed tourists before, although I'm not convinced that's true. I was originally planning on stepping in it to see what quicksand feels like, but after seeing how it looked like goo, I decided not to. We walked of some roots sticking up to get a better view. Peter's dog, Whiskey, came with us on the walk.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

The little village on the island. Here, after asking around, Peter, who claimed to be a rescue diver for the military, offered to show me around. I offered him $10. It was a bit awkward, as I couldn't tell if he was trying to make money or just being nice. He mentioned he also organizes camping trips.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

The harbour on Aunu'u, with Tutuila in the background. The water looked temptingly clear here.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

The small boat coming to pick us up. They tried to rip me off by charging me $2 for the ride over, after trying to charge me $3. But I didn't pay them on the way back, and they seemed OK with it, so I ended up paying fair price.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

I took an aiga bus to the eastern end of Tutuila to visit Aunu'u. I had to wait an hour, as the first bus didn't stop for me, and this is a less frequently travelled route. Wave to catch a bus, and knock on the wooden roof to be let off. The nearly one hour ride cost only $2. Although I don't think we actually covered that much distance.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

The building containing various government agencies in Fagatogo. It used to be a mall before the tsunami flooded everything. There were still a few destroyed buildings around, including a boat stuck in a roof in the adjacent lot. Apparently the car of one of his co-workers was wedged on the second floor after the tsunami.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

The veranda just outside the door. I went in town along with his daily commute, a drive along the coast with beautiful waves, hills, and a famous island known as the "flower pot" that is featured on American Samoa license plates. Sadly, I didn't get a chance to take a photo of it. Here's a picture of it hosted by Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Fatu_Rock.jpg

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html
11 June 2011 (-1 in time zone):

View from my Couchsurfing host's place in Mesepa, close to the American Samoa Community College.

Rough notes:
http://mandarinmanmarktravelnotes.blogspot.com/2012/06/2011-nz-to-sf-day-29.html